Retriever Force Fetching Tips
Force Fetching IForce Fetch exercises are used for training dogs to shut down pressure by fetching any item it is told to fetch. Some people call it a trained retrieve. The length of required training time depends on a dog's temperament. Some dogs complete force fetching exercises very quickly and with little pressure but other dogs may take more time. In the end, training a dog to force fetch will make your dog a more reliable retriever and hunting companion.
In my experience, I owned, trained, and witnessed many retrievers that have not been properly force fetched trained. One of the greatest gun dogs I have ever shot birds over was my own golden retriever Junior. (You can see a tribute to him at the bottom of the Our Dogs page.) Junior did not have force fetch training. Ever so often, an occasion arose where Junior would refuse to retrieve. Because I had not gone through the force fetching process, I had no recourse to make him complete his retrieve.
The moral here is that force fetching will make a good retriever great and reliable. It also teaches the dog how to shut down pressure by fetching. Once this training is done many other types of training can continue. Force fetching leads into training for whistle and hand signals (baseball) and swim by training.
When teaching a dog to force fetch, I use a secure table where the dog can be placed. I run a rope from the ceiling so that I can leash the dog up. I leash them up so they cannot lie down and it secures them so they can’t get off the table without my assistance. The first step involves teaching the dog to jump up on the table and to become relaxed. The next step involves two elements and teaches the dog to hold. I start with an item that I have not thrown for the dog as a retrieval object. That way I don’t get a refusal when throwing marks for the dog. I place the item in the dog’s mouth saying fetch, and then once the item is in the dog’s mouth, I command hold and physically hold the dog’s mouth around the object. I do not let the dog spit out the object until I take the object and say mine or what ever release commands you wish to use. (The object can be a fetching dumb bell, stick, etc)
Once the dog understands the hold command then it is time to move to the forced retrieve. The ear pinch method works best for my training needs. I place my thumb inside the dog’s ear, on the sensitive part of the inside of the ear. I then pinch down, with my thumb nail, and cause the dog discomfort. When the dog opens its mouth to whine I place the object inside, command fetch and immediately release the pinching pressure. This process is repeated until the dog understands that when given the command to fetch that it can stop the pinching pressure by reaching and putting the retrieval object in its mouth. Once the dog consistently takes the object from your hand, then you can hold the object further away from the dog. This step forces the dog to move towards the object in order to complete the retrieve. You can also start moving the object towards the table as well. Now that your dog fetches from the table, you can take the ear pinch pressure and transfer it to the e-collar. This transfer of pressure may require you to review the steps where your dog takes the object from your hand. After you revisit these steps, you and your dog can move forward with your force fetch training.
Remember to take this training very slowly and watch for signs of stress in you dog. Your dog will tell you when it is ready to move to the next step. Once this training is done it usually never has to be repeated. If you have never force fetched a dog please consult a professional trainer to help you through this type of training. If this training is done wrong it can ruin a good dog.
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force Fetching II
The second phase of Force Fetching involves moving the dog from the force fetch table to the ground. This move facilitates future training with baseball drills or hand signals.
Once you have your dog holding retrieval items and fetching objects from the table, then you are ready to move your dog to the ground. This move is significant because dogs are place oriented. The ground or the yard will be a whole different ball game for the dog.
Prior to starting Force Fetching II training, you must place your dog on a six foot leash. With leash in hand and with the dog in a heel position, you will drop a bumper or retrieval object right in front of the dog, and then you will command your dog to fetch. You want to drop the object close enough to the dog so that it only has to reach down and pick it up. On the first attempt, the dog may fetch the object or the dog may balk and refuse to follow your command. If the dog resists the command, you should apply collar pressure to encourage your dog to obey. Your best approach to applying pressure is to start as light as possible and then work up to stronger settings if needed. As a last resort, you may have to place your hand under the collar and push the dog’s head, but you should opt for this tactic only if necessary.
Once the dog picks up the bumper that was dropped in front of it, then you can start increasing the distance up to six (6) feet. When you reach the length of your six (6) foot leash, you can move to a longer check cord or a retractable leash. The dog must comply with your command to fetch immediately. If it does not, you must apply pressure until the retrieval object is in the dog’s mouth, then release the pressure immediately. While the dog is returning from a forced fetch, you must enforce your obedience commands. You must require the dog to return to a heeling position and to hold the bumper until you command it to release. Successful completion of this task ends with the bumper in your hand. If the dog drops the bumper at any time during the exercise, then you apply collar pressure until the dog fetches the bumper back up. I recommend this exercise be done inside of a building or a room so that the dog is not looking for an escape route. But if this is not possible, then your leash will give you the same reassurance and control over the dog.
Successful Force Fetch II training occurs when your dog seeks the retrieval object without hesitation, completes the retrieve, returns to you with the object in its mouth, heels, sits, and presents the bumper to you as the handler without any pressure at least 85% of the time. Remember that your dog is a living breathing creature. It can have a bad day even with the best of trainers, so you should work slowly, patiently, and persistently, and as a result you will create an excellent retriever with excellent force fetching skills.
Just as important as knowing when and how much pressure to apply you must also reward your dog with praise when these exercises are completed correctly. The amount of praise needed will depend on the individual dog. Your dog may simply require a soft word such as good or you may have to make a big fuss over the dog and praise the dog and physically pet the dog.
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
Force fetching training
After force fetching from the ground, the next training stage is Walking Fetch. This phase involves fairly simple training exercises. Before starting the walking fetch phase, you should take out six (6) white retrieving bumpers and place them about 10 to 15 yards apart on the ground in a straight line. After setting up the course, you place your dog on a leash in a heeling position and walk towards the first bumper. At the first bumper, you command the dog to fetch. Your dog should reach down and pick up the bumper. If the dog balks, then you must apply pressure until the dog completes the retrieve. After the dog has the bumper in its mouth, you command the dog to sit in a heeling position, and then give your release command, take the bumper and drop it behind you. After you complete this process, you and your dog move to the next bumper. The walking fetch process is repeated until your dog picks up all six (6) bumpers. To complete the walking fetch process, you and your dog will turn around and go through all six (6) bumpers two more times until the dog has made 18 total retrieves. Successful walking fetch training occurs when your dog can complete all 18 retrieves perfectly, without pressure, at least 85% of the time.
Walking fetch training
Walking fetch training
Walking fetch training
Walking fetch training
Walking fetch training
Once the dog is at this level of training you might have to back up and use real birds. Hopefully you have introduced your puppy to birds at an early age and this will not be necessary. But if your dog refuses to pick up birds you can back up to forcing to the ground and instead of bumpers use dead birds. I like to start with a frozen dove. It is small and because it is frozen the dog can’t mouth it and tear it up. The same principles apply here as with bumpers. If the dog balks then apply pressure until the retrieve is completed. Once the dog can handle doves move up to a pigeon or a teal, then a wood duck, mallard, and lastly a goose. This will ensure that your pup has been exposed to all types of fowl that it might encounter during a hunting trip.
Prior to forcing on birds I would recommend that you tease and temp your pup with the birds first. Then toss them and encourage your dog to pick them up. Forcing on birds should be done as a last result.
Forcing to the Pile IForcing to the pile is the next step after walking fetch. I like to use a white bucket set on top of an electric fencing post as a sight tool for the dog. I take my stake and bucket and place them out and then I drop 6 white training bumpers in front of it. (The white bucket gives the dog something to visually key in on.)
I like to start right at the pile so all the dog has to do is reach down. I like to take my hand and place it just above the dog’s head and I softly talk to the dog saying dead, or dead bird, or watch out there. (You can use which ever you like.) These phrases will turn into commands over time by the dog learning through association. As soon as the dog looks towards the bucket and pile of bumpers I command fetch and the dog reaches down and picks up a bumper. Make sure your dog gets back into a heeling position and presents the bumper to you. Also use those words ever time just before you send the dog to teach them to look in a certain direction. Repeat this until the dog has picked up all 6 bumpers.
Once the dog is doing this reliably then you can start to increase the distance. I do this by commanding fetch, when the dog goes to retrieve I take one step back. I like to go through all 6 bumpers at least 3 times giving me a total of 18 retrieves. As the dog gets better at it you can making your starting distance longer there for making all subsequent retrieves longer as well, as you take steps back away from the pile of bumpers.
Once your dog understands the fetch command while forcing to the pile it is time to switch that command over to the word back. I do this by commanding fetch and then immediately saying back. After a few times I switch to saying back then fetch. After a short while later I simply stop saying fetch and only use the command back. Now, you can still command fetch but save that until when you really need to get the dog’s attention and make it complete a retrieve or if it drops a bumper or bird command fetch for the dog to pick it back up.
Forcing to the Pile IIOnce your dog is running this drill out to say 100 yards it is time to move to the next step. That step is to get the dog to sit at the pile. Now hopefully when you were teaching your puppy to sit back during its obedience training you blew 1 whistle blast every time you told the dog to sit. If not then back up and do that training prior to this step.
Make your distance from the pile about 20 to 30 yards. Then do the same steps as forcing the dog to the pile of bumpers. When the dog gets to the pile and gets a bumper in its mouth blow the sit whistle. If the dog does not sit blow the whistle again and add in a firm voice command to sit. If the dog still doesn’t understand decrease the distance moves towards the dog as you give the commands. You can also use a mild nick with the collar as you give the sit command either by whistle, voice, or both. Keep working at this until the dog understands that when it gets to the pile and fetches it is now required to sit.
Now that your dog knows to sit at the pile when it is making its return to you about half way back give another sit command. Once the dog stops and sits command stay if needed and walk forward and take the bumper from the dog. Repeat these steps until the dog has picked up all 18 bumpers.
Forcing to the Pile IIIAfter all the steps above are completed it is time to start teaching the dog the right and left back hand signals. I do this by placing the dog facing the pile while I step off a few steps to the side of the dog. Then get the dog to look at me holding my right hand straight up above my head, taking a side step to the right I give the command back. Now, at this point your dog may be confused and run to your side and then take off towards the pile. If this happens decrease the distance to the pile and repeat the step. If the dog balks apply pressure until the retrieve is completed. If you have to decrease your distance to the pile remember that once the dog is doing the work well you can increase your distance.
I like to do the dog with 9 retrieves on the right side and then repeat the same steps above with 9 retrieves on the left side. As the dog gets better you can slowly start to turn your dog around facing you. Then start turning the dog away from the pile. You continue to turn the dog until you are facing the pile with the dog facing you with its back to the pile.
This is the beginning stage of the base ball drill. You are standing at home plate. The dog is on the pitcher’s mound and the pile of bumpers is at second plate. You cast the dog by using your hand signal and commanding the word back. The dog makes the retrieve and you then command it to sit at second base. Then call the dog back to the pitcher’s mound with three blasts from your whistle and command the dog to sit by using one blast from your whistle. Then walk out take that bumper and put it away and repeat this only sending the dog to the other side.
At this stage you can also stand just to the left or right of the dog to entice the dog to turn the correct direction you command it to go. After repeating the drill you should be able to stand in front of your dog and give it a left or right back hand signal and the dog should spin in the direction you’ve commanded and make a retrieve at the pile and then sit when commanded. I would recommend 18 retrieves 9 to the right and then 9 to the left. It does not matter which one you start with first that is personal preference. Then start mixing it up to make sure the dog is really paying attention to you and not anticipating the commands.